Charles Ashworth
What Makes a Proper Afternoon Tea
Afternoon tea sits somewhere between a meal and a small ceremony. It arrived in Victorian Britain as a way of bridging the long gap between luncheon and a late dinner, and the format has barely changed since: savouries, scones, sweets and a pot of tea, served in that order. It is not the same thing as high tea, which was a working supper of cold meats, pies and a strong brew taken at the kitchen table. What you are planning is the lighter, gentler affair, and it is far easier to get right at home than most people imagine.
The golden rule is scale. Three or four sandwiches, one or two scones and two or three small cakes per person is generous enough. Guests almost always eat more scones than you expect, and fewer cakes. It is better to send someone home with a wrapped slice of sponge than to watch a stand go sad and untouched.
Setting the Table
Before you think about food, sort out the tea things. A clean linen or cotton cloth in white or cream sets the tone far better than a patterned one, which competes with the food. Lay everything out so that guests can serve themselves without reaching across anyone.
- A three-tiered stand, loaded bottom to top: sandwiches below, scones in the middle, cakes on the highest tier.
- Cups and saucers rather than mugs. Bone china looks delicate but holds heat surprisingly well.
- Side plates, teaspoons and small knives for spreading, plus a napkin each.
- A milk jug, a sugar bowl with cubes and tongs, and a spare pot of hot water.
- Fresh flowers, kept low so they do not block the view across the table.
- A teapot large enough for refills, warmed with hot water and emptied just before brewing.
Work backwards from the hour you intend to sit down. Sandwiches should be made no more than an hour ahead and kept under a slightly damp cloth in the fridge. Scones go into the oven about forty minutes before, so they are still warm when they reach the table.
The Savoury Tier
This is where most home attempts fall down, usually because the bread is too thick and the butter too cold. Use a good white loaf and a good brown one, sliced thinly, and butter it at room temperature right to the edges — that thin layer of fat is what stops the filling soaking through.
Cucumber is the classic and deserves care: peel it, slice it paper-thin, lay the slices on kitchen paper, salt them lightly and leave for twenty minutes, then pat dry. Skip that step and your sandwiches will weep. Beyond that, try smoked salmon with a squeeze of lemon, egg mayonnaise with mustard cress, ham with a little English mustard, or a spoonful of coronation chicken.
Cut the crusts off, then cut each sandwich into neat fingers or triangles. Arrange them overlapping on the bottom tier so they look plentiful rather than stacked in a heap.
The Scone Tier
Warm scones are the heart of the whole affair. A reliable batch is 225g self-raising flour, a pinch of salt and 55g of cold butter rubbed in until the mixture looks like fine breadcrumbs, then 150ml of milk stirred through to a soft dough. Pat it out to about 2cm thick, cut with a sharp cutter and do not twist the cutter — press straight down and lift, or the scones will rise crookedly. Bake at 220°C (200°C fan) for ten to twelve minutes until risen and golden.
Serve them with clotted cream and strawberry or raspberry jam. Split them by hand rather than with a knife, which tears the crumb. On the order of cream and jam, Devon and Cornwall will never agree; put both on the table and let guests settle it themselves. If you are short of time, scones freeze beautifully — refresh them in a warm oven for five minutes.
The Sweet Tier
Small is the point here. Miniature Victoria sponges with a dab of jam and cream, lemon drizzle cut into fingers, fruit tartlets, shortbread rounds or small squares of chocolate ganache all work well. Two or three bites each is the right size.
- Buy one element rather than making everything — good shortbread or macarons from a bakery save an hour of work.
- Fill tartlets on the morning of serving, never the night before.
- Keep the top tier light in colour as well as weight; pale sponges and pastel icings photograph and taste better than anything heavy.
Choosing and Brewing the Tea
Loose leaf makes a genuine difference and is worth the small extra effort. Allow one teaspoon per person plus one for the pot, and use water just off the boil — around 96°C for black teas. A brisk Assam or English Breakfast takes three to four minutes and stands up well to milk; a first-flush Darjeeling needs only two to three and is best without. For something more fragrant, consider a lightly scented Earl Grey, a jasmine green brewed cooler at about 80°C, or a smoky Lapsang for the curious. Always offer one caffeine-free option such as rooibos or peppermint.
Never let the leaves stew in the pot. Strain as you pour, or decant into a second warmed pot once the tea has reached the strength you want, and top up with fresh water and fresh leaves for the second round. A pot that has been sitting for twenty minutes will undo an otherwise impeccable table.
Finally, resist the urge to overfill the day. Afternoon tea works best when it is unhurried: one pot, one stand, and a good hour of conversation around it.
